The Bra - an Introduction

A brassiere, commonly referred to as a bra, is an article of clothing that covers, supports, and elevates the breasts. The bra is considered a foundation garment, as well as an undergarment, because of its role in shaping the wearer's figure. It was originally developed in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries to replace the corset, and has now become, in many parts of the world, the most popular form of undergarment for the upper body, although camisoles and chemises are becoming more popular.
Although the main function of the bra is, and has always been support, this is by no means the only thing that a bra can do. Perhaps the most tantalizing piece of modern lingerie, the bra shapes a woman's breasts giving a different look with each design. What could be more erotic or more feminine than the curve of the breasts supported in a piece of fine lingerie that perfectly complements them? Push-up bras, balcony bras, bras that separate, those which squeeze together, half cup bras, soft cups and stretch fit - the options are endless and it all depends on what and how you want to show off.
True temptation comes with something daring. The quarter cup bra gently lifts the breasts and cuts across the nipples, squeezing together, pushing, exerting just the slightest pressure, while brightly coloured tulle wraps the breasts like sweet candy. Straps that are meant to be seen should have a little bow where they join the cup; showing that they support something special, while shocking-pink lace teases the eye under shirts that gape oh so slightly.
The first bras
Prior to the advent of the modern bra, a term coined in 1937, corsets were the only support garments available. Originally fashioned with whalebones, the one-piece corset was made popular by Catherine de Medici's demand for slim-waisted court attendants during her husband's-King Henri II-reign in France in the 1550s. The corset's popularity was withstanding and lasted over 350 years, with whalebone being replaced by steel rods. The corset design changed to accommodate the reigning ideal figure, pushing bust and hips around according to the fashionable silhouette.
In the late nineteenth century, several precursors to the modern bra were developed. In 1875, a loose, unionsuit was manufactured by George Frost and George Phelps. During this period, corsets were lengthened to produce the fashionable figure type, the top of the corset dropped low, often not supporting or covering the breasts. As added support, fabric undergarments called bust bodices were worn over the corset to cover and shape the breasts (by pushing them together but not separating them), somewhat similar to the modern brassiere. In 1889, a Frenchwoman named Mme. Herminie Cadolle devised the a garment called the Bien-Etre (meaning well-being), which connected with sashes over the shoulders to the corset in back.
Early in the twentieth century, the need for a less obtrusive undergarment became necessary as the fashions changed. In 1913, the modern brassiere was born out of necessity when New York socialite Mary Phelps Jacobs' whalebone corset poked up above her low cut gown. Fashioned from silk hanker-chiefs and ribbons, the mechanism proved useful and Jacobs filed the first patent for a brassiere and began producing brassieres under the name Caresse Crosby. Jacobs sold the patent and business to Warner Brothers Corset Company for $1,500
Bra Sizing
Brassiere sizes take the form "34B," where the number is the band size (also called frame size) and the letter is the cup size. According to the market research firm NPD, the most popular bra size in the United States went from 34B to 36B in 1991, and from 36B to 36C in 2000.
There is no way of determining with a tape measure what bra size a woman needs. The only way of determining whether a bra fits is to try it on. Nevertheless, a tape measure can be used to get an approximation to the size as a starting point for fittings.
The band size is based on the circumference of rib cage below the breasts. In North America the measurement is made in inches, and numbers in the thirties and forties are common. Elsewhere the numbers are much larger (e.g., "85") reflecting measurements made in centimeters.
To find U.S. band size, measure around the rib cage just below the bust, in inches. Add 5, unless the measurement is over 33 inches, in which case add 3. If the result is an odd number, add an additional 1.
The band size is slightly adjustable, since most bras close with hooks on the band, usually with three possible positions. Usually sizes 36D and 38C and larger have 3 hooks vertically, across the band, to provide more support; other sizes have only 2.
To find cup size, measure around the fullest part of the bust while wearing a bra that fits well, again in inches. Subtract the band size. The difference is given in the first column below. The actual volumes of cup sizes vary with band size; a C cup on a 34 band is bigger than a C cup on a 32 band.
Measure under the arms, but above the breasts. Some designs assume this figure it will be the same as the band size, but it often is not. Subtract this number from the full bust measurement. See column 2 of the table below.
The table is an approximation. Bra sizing is a nightmare, especially in the larger sizes, where a wealth of differing letter codes are in use. Apparently most manufacturers assume an inch difference between cup sizes, but many do not. Some use an inch and a half, or even two inches. Certain manufacturers do not even keep a consistent difference between cup sizes. So, ladies, it makes sense to try it on.
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